The inspiration for a toe-up Band Heel came from these two tutorials: Denise’s Toe-up Socks and Regina’s Dutch Heel for Toe-up Socks.
I’ll begin with general directions and follow-up with how I completed my toe-up band heel on 72 sts (8.5 SPI). The photos below show the heel st used on the band heel — ignore that, I always knit that type of st on the bottom of my socks.
Note: All sts are slipped as if to purl, unless otherwise noted.
Divide the sole into thirds. If you have any sts remaining, leave them for the center of the heel (the band / strap) — the wider, the better. Use markers if you need them.
Step 1: Knit 2/3, then purl back on the next 1/3 (center sts) to create the band / strap at the heel. Work back and forth on the center sts, slipping the first st of every row, until you have the same number of chain edges as you do for the group of sts on each side of the band / strap. End with a wrong side row, ready to pick up on the right side.
Note: On the last row of the band / strap, I decreased 2 sts, to prevent dog ears. Play around with the shaping in this area to see if you get better results.
Step 2: Pick-up sts along right edge — from left to right with needle coming from the left hand — yes, it seems weird picking them up in this manner, but it works. Turn work. Pick up the purl st on the row below the last picked up st with left needle, and purl 2 sts together. This closes the annoying gap in the corner. Turn work.
Step 3: Slip the first st, knit along the front, and pick-up the sts on the other side of the strap / band. Close the corner, by picking up the knit st from the row below with the right needle, slip the first st on the left needle as if to knit, insert left needle through back of first 2 sts on right needle from left to right, and knit together (you could also do a PSSO here). Turn work.
Note: Make sure you have 1/2 the total of sock sts around the band / strap. If not, just decrease on the next round.
Step 4: Slip the first st, purl along back until you get to the last st at the gap, slip to left needle, and purl 2 sts together. Turn work.
Step 5: Slip the first st, knit along front until you get to last st at the gap, slip to right needle, slip first st on left needle as if to knit, insert left needle through back of first 2 sts on right needle from left to right, and knit together. Turn work.
Step 6: Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until finished.
Step 7: Step back and admire a new toe-up heel technique :)
ETA: Specs for toe-up band heel on 72-st sock. From what I can remember, this is how I knit it. Be kind, for sometimes my memory gets the best of me.
When you’re ready to work the band heel (ignore the fact I used the heel st): RS: K24 sts, turn, sl 1, P11.
WS: Next row: Sl 1, K11.
Rep last two rows until 12 chain edges on side. End ready to work on WS.
Sl 1, P2tog through back loops, P to last 3 sts, P2 tog, P1 (10 sts).
On RS, pick up 12 sts along right edge of band heel. Turn work.
Pick up purl st on row below and P tog with st on LN (as shown in photo 2 above; 23 sts). Turn work.
Sl 1, K22 sts, and pick up 12 sts along left edge of band heel.
Pick up knit st on row below and K tog with st on LN (as shown in photo 3 above; 36 sts). Turn work.
WS: Sl 1, P34 sts, P last st tog with st on LN (as explained in Step 4 above). Turn work.
RS: Sl 1, K34 sts, K last st tog with st on RN (as explained in Step 5 above). Turn work.
Rep last two rows until 36 sts total left, end on RS, and cont knitting sock in the round.
If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me :)
